Monday, June 18, 2012

Adventures of the tap-tap


It was a fun and adventurous weekend! 
Friday night, we started out with our usual cards and beers on the porch.  Then around 10 pm, a couple other Americans on campus were heading into town to go to a bar, so half of us students decided to tag along.  “Going into town” on a Friday night in Milot really means walking down dirt roads for a half mile in pitch black night (no street lights), past people hanging out outside their houses in the dark, trying not to fall into a side ditch or get hit by the occasional motorcycle whipping by.  We reached the bar, which was a big dark room with a raised dance floor in the middle, and empty of people except for the two guys behind the bar.  Perfect!  A couple of us took the dance floor right away and I didn’t leave it much all night – they played some Haitian music and made an obvious effort to give us some Justin Bieber and other such American classics.  About a half hour after we arrived, a dozen or so local people started trickling in, potentially to observe this curious foreign bunch dancing so strangely.  After a couple hours of wowing the locals with my killer moves in our semi-private nightclub, we headed home to get some sleep before beach day part deux.
The next morning, we again piled into a tap-tap (again, a pick-up truck converted to public transportation), but as a much bigger group this time.  We piled 6 of us students, our translator/guide to all things Haiti - Lumarc, another American dancing queen Nadia, and 6 brawny electricians, plus the driver and 3 of his wingmen into this tap-tap.  Needless to say, we were a little heavy going up those mountain dirt roads from Cap Haitien to get ourselves over to the beach.  After some tough speed bumps to the undercarriage and puffs of black smoke coming out the back of the truck, we slowed to a halt mid-hill.  I felt very sorry for that truck.  We all climbed out and started walking uphill for a while until it was allegedly safe to climb back in for a couple hundred feet of downhill.  This repeated a few times until we finally made it to the beach.  It was all worth it for another lovely day relaxing on Cormier Beach.  I showed off my beach volleyball prowess (not), got in some reading and sun, and ate a cheeseburger and fries (I know, I know – if I didn’t eat Haitian food for every meal every day here at the compound, I would give myself the stink-eye… In the end, we all realized that the burgers were the most reasonably priced and filling items on the menu at the beach).  The water was a little less lovely than the first time, since it was dotted with floating trash that day that flows in from who-knows-where.  Come 5:30 pm, I’m not surprised that our originally faithful tap-tap driver didn’t feel like picking up a good 3,000 lbs of human cargo for a second time. So Lumarc called another tap-tap in Milot to drive the hour to the beach to pick us up.  We finally left the beach at 7 pm, again piling an absurd amount of people into this refurbished pick-up truck, and again having to jump out and walk uphill when we reached the slopes.  When we finally hit flat ground, we had 3 men standing on the back of the truck, the wingman on the roof, a couple in the front, and a dozen in the bed of the truck.  About halfway home, it started raining to make it extra refreshing for the guys hanging off the back.  We made it home a little after 8 and I passed out before 10.
Yesterday (Sunday) was another quiet day on the porch, except for a quick trip down into the market in town to attract lots of local attention as we haggled for mangoes.  The mangoes and pineapples here are delicious!  The compound is covered with mango trees, but when the mangoes are ripe they fall and split on the ground – which makes them not so safe to eat anymore.  I keep pitching my ideas of a giant fish net around the compound, or covering the ground with pillows to save these precious mangoes.  No bites yet.
Speaking of ideas, I feel like we are finally starting to form some ideas on some recommendations for nutrition prevention and treatment here.  It’s a better feeling than the first two weeks where I just felt a little lost and overwhelmed as to where to start and how to contribute to solving the very difficult problem of widespread malnutrition.  But, with ideas, there still comes frustration and sadness because there will always be things that you cannot change.  Today was an especially sad day at the Nutrition Center.  Little 16-month-old, 15-pound Jamesley that I mentioned last week, was in terrible shape this morning.  Not only has he not improved since he started coming to the nutrition center a month ago, but he has actually lost weight, often refuses to eat, and just let out what seemed like a couple litres of diarrhea this morning.  I ran back to the compound to grab some oral rehydration salts and bring them back, but when the diarrhea continued, we (his father, a translator, and I) brought him to the emergency room.  I was skeptical, since his visit to the hospital the previous week didn’t seem to be very helpful.  I returned to the nutrition center once he was firmly in line to be seen, and continued to chat with the ladies who work there to learn more about how things work – or don’t work – at the center.  An hour later, Jamesley returned, only to unleash more out of his weak, tiny body as we scrambled to clean it up (still to an improvised, mediocre degree) before all of the other crawling babies got sick.  He really needs to be hospitalized and put on inpatient therapeutic feeding, but unfortunately it doesn't seem like that's available here.  My only relief before finally leaving was that he started taking bites of his lunch.  But with a new list of prescriptions from the ER doc that his parents likely can’t afford because they don’t work and have no money, I just sit – stunned – wondering how this boy will ever recover, and not knowing what we can do to see that he does.
Tomorrow, we head back into the communities in the morning for field work, and then we’re heading to a nearby orphanage in the afternoon to learn about the work that they are doing and spend time with the kiddies.  We’re really looking forward to it – will report on it soon!

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